SOUTHWEST SIDE ROUTES - (from the Bunny Flat Trailhead)
Climber's Guide Virtual Tour
Climber's Guide Trailhead Guide
Mt. Shasta Wilderness - The Southwest SideRoute 1: Avalanche Gulch - Suggested Level 1
- Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons
Variations: Suggested Level 2 -
requires ice axe and crampons, conditions may require rope for safety.
- Left of The Heart - Experienced on steep icy
slopes
- Red Banks Chimneys - Chimneys may be icy with
steep slopes
- Upper Casaval Ridge - Steeper terrain, snow,
ice or loose talus
Route 2: Old Ski Bowl - Suggested Level 1 -
Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons
- Green Butte Ridge to Sargents Ridge - Suggested Level
2, requires ice axe and crampons, conditions may require rope for safety, loose
talus, moderate to steep snow, ice, or rocky terrain.
Route 3: Sargents Ridge - Suggested Level 2 - 4,
Conditions may require rope for safety, loose talus, moderate to steep snow, ice, or rocky
terrain.
- Traverse to Mud Creek Glacier - Suggested Level 2,
require rope for safety
Route 4: Green Butte Ridge - Suggested
Level 1, Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons, may require rope for safety on
the upper ridge during the Winter
Route 5: Casaval Ridge - Suggested Level 2- 3,
Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, and some rock, and equipment.
- West Face Gully - Suggested Level 2- 3,
Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, rope can be used for safety on the
upper headwall
Route 6: Cascade Gulch - Suggested Level 1,
Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons (at times)
- Shastina Ascent - Suggested Level 2, Moderate,
requires ice axe and crampons
- Upper Whitney Glacier - Suggested Level 2- 3,
Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, experience
with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment.
NORTHWEST SIDE ROUTES - (from Bolam & Northgate Trailhead)
Climber's Guide Virtual Tour
Climber's Guide Trailhead Guide
Mt.
Shasta Wilderness - The North Side
Route 7: Whitney Glacier - Suggested Level 2- 3,
Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, experience with steep ice,
snow, and rock, and equipment.
- Whitney Icefall - Suggested Level 3,
Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment. Offers Serac
and Ice climbing. Use extreme Caution during summer.
- Whitney\Bolam Ridge - Suggested 1- 2,
Moderate- Advanced, requires ice axe and crampons, experience with steep ice, snow, and
rock, and equipment. (Good ski descent)
Route 8: West Bolam Glacier - Suggested Level 2
- 3, require ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, crevasses (Good for first
glacial climb)
Route 9: East Bolam Glacier - Suggested Level 3,
require ice axe, crampons, crevasses, rope for safety.
- Bolam Gully - Suggested Level 3,
Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with steep ice,
snow, rock, and equipment.
Route 10: Hotlum\Bolam Ridge - Suggested Level 2,
requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snow, ice, or loose talus terrain,
conditions may require rope above base camp.
- Side trip to Chicago Glacier ( from the north) -
Suggested Level 1- 3, Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope,
experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment, crevasse crossing

NORTHEAST SIDE ROUTES - (from the Northgate & Brewer Creek Trailhead)
Climber's Guide Virtual Tour
Climber's Guide Trailhead Guide
Mt.
Shasta Wilderness - The North Side
Route 11: Hotlum Glacier - Suggested Level
3, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with
steep ice, snow, crevasses, rock, and equipment. (Serac climbing available at Icefalls)
- Hotlum Glacier Headwall - Suggested Level 4
with Advanced rock and ice climbing (pitches up to 5.8) equipment required.
- Hotlum Headwall Ice Gully - Suggested Level 4
with possible dangerous conditions, requires Advanced rock and ice climbing skills,
equipment required.
- Hotlum Icefalls - Suggested Level 3 - 4,
Advanced with ice climbing, equipment required.
- Chicago Glacier Side trip (from the south)
- Suggested Level 1- 2, Moderate- Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and
rope, experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment.
Route 12: Hotlum\Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level
2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus
terrain, conditions may require rope.
Then on to the summit via:
- Traverse to the Left - Suggested Level 2,
requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain,
conditions may require rope.
- Rock Ridge Direct - Suggested Level 2,
requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain,
conditions may require rope.
- Traverse Right (north) - Suggested Level 3,
requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain,
conditions may require rope.
Route 13: Wintun Glacier - Suggested Level 2-3,
requires ice axe, crampons, and rope, steep snowfields, ice, or loose talus terrain.
- Traverse to Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level 2,
requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain,
conditions may require rope.
- Brewer Creek approach to the Wintun Glacier
- Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose
talus terrain, conditions may require rope.

SOUTHEAST SIDE ROUTES - (from the Brewer Creek & Clear Creek Trailhead)
Climber's Guide Virtual Tour
Climber's Guide Trailhead Guide
Mt.
Shasta Wilderness - The East Side
Route 14: Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level 1 - 2,
Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and conditions may require rope,
experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment.
- Watkins Glacier Side Trip - Suggested Level 1 - 2,
Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and conditions may require rope
Route 15: Clear Creek - Suggested Level 1,
Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons (Loose talus in summer months)
Route 16: Konwakiton Glacier (from the east) -
Suggested Level 3 - 4, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for
safety, experience with steep ice, snow, rock, and equipment. Steep and rugged terrain
with dangerous rockfall.
Route 17: Konwakiton Glacier (from the south) -
Suggested Level 3 - 4, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for
safety, experience with steep ice, snow, rock, and equipment. Steep and rugged terrain
with dangerous rockfall.

Climbing
Maps
Mt. Shasta Wilderness Recreation Map
An excellent route map covering the
climbing routes is the "Climbing Routes" by Michael Zanger, owner of Shasta
Mountain Guides, and published by Wilderness Press. The map is compiled from Mt. Shasta
and McCloud quadrangles and was remapped in 1988 by Andy Selters. The map shows the
Mountain's routes and their variations. Available in Mountaineering Stores.
The Fifth
Season's Mount Shasta Climber's Review
A summary of the Mount Shasta climbing routes sold at The Fifth
Season's store and at the Mount Shasta Ranger District. A well
defined topo map with several smaller maps showing all the routes
for climbing Mt. Shasta. |