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Climbing Routes

There are 17 established routes, each with several variations, that lead to the Summit on Mt. Shasta. Many of these routes were first climbed in the late 1800s, but it wasn't until more than 100 years later in 1989 that a local mountain guide, Michael Zanger, director of Shasta Mountain Guides, assigned numbers to the routes. The routes shown below are from The Mt. Shasta Book with permission.

Most climbers, especially first time climbers, use Route 1, the Avalanche Gulch route located at the Bunny Flat trailhead. This route is also called the main route and it's considered non-technical, which means you won't need ropes or belay devices; however, an ice axe and crampons are a must for climbing this route, even during the late summer when most of the snow is gone. Casaval, Sargents, and Green Butte Ridge routes, and a few others, are also accessible from the Bunny Flat trailhead or from the Old Ski Bowl.

Difficulty...

The Mt. Shasta Routes show variations to that specific route, however, it doesn't necessarily mean that is the route to follow. Each route and variation has a different degree of difficulty depending upon the experience of the climber and the weather and climbing conditions. To give an accurate rating would be a false assumption but we can suggest a level of difficulty according to the average climber who has ascended the mountain at least once.

Beginners can refer to level one and should not attempt another level unless you have mountaineering experience, taken a basic mountaineering course, or made a successful summit attempt at least once, or be accompanied by an experienced licensed guide. We strongly recommend that you take a course in Basic Mountaineering by a qualified instructor with a licensed guide service before attempting the summit of Mt. Shasta.

And, mountaineering is a sport, and like all sports, you have to practice first. Climbing Mt. Shasta should have the same treatment. Spend some time on the mountain before attempting to climb to the summit. Maybe set you goal to climb to the route's base camp which will give you time to learn the route, understand the mountain, and basically give yourself the true test to see if you are capable of climbing. This procedure also gives you time to talk with other climbers and gives you a chance to look ahead at the route that you plan on taking to the summit. There are also guide books and maps available and plenty of experienced climbers to help you along the way. If at all possible, try and attend a slide presentation given in your area on mountaineering. Good Luck!

Suggested Levels
(crampons & ice axe skills required on all levels)

Level One	No Technical Difficulty	recommended for beginners, no rope travel required
Level Two	Moderate Difficulty	somewhat steeper ground, may require roped travel
Level Three	Moderate Technical Climbing	glacier travel, ropes, required equip & open crevasses
Level Four	Difficult Climbing	rock and ice with with a great commitment
Level Five	Extreme Climbing	rock and ice with great exposure & objective hazards

http://www.shastahome.com/virtualtour/

SOUTHWEST SIDE ROUTES
(from the Bunny Flat Trailhead)

Route 1: Avalanche Gulch - Suggested Level 1 - Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons

Variations: Suggested Level 2 - requires ice axe and crampons, conditions may require rope for safety.

Left of The Heart - Experienced on steep icy slopes
Red Banks Chimneys - Chimneys may be icy with steep slopes
Upper Casaval Ridge - Steeper terrain, snow, ice or loose talus

Route 2: Old Ski Bowl - Suggested Level 1 - Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons

Green Butte Ridge to Sargents Ridge - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe and crampons, conditions may require rope for safety, loose talus, moderate to steep snow, ice, or rocky terrain.

Route 3: Sargents Ridge - Suggested Level 2 - 4, Conditions may require rope for safety, loose talus, moderate to steep snow, ice, or rocky terrain.

Traverse to Mud Creek Glacier - Suggested Level 2, require rope for safety

Route 4: Green Butte Ridge - Suggested Level 1, Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons, may require rope for safety on the upper ridge during the Winter

Route 5: Casaval Ridge - Suggested Level 2- 3, Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, and some rock, and equipment.

West Face Gully - Suggested Level 2- 3, Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, rope can be used for safety on the upper headwall

Route 6: Cascade Gulch - Suggested Level 1, Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons (at times)

Shastina Ascent - Suggested Level 2, Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons
Upper Whitney Glacier - Suggested Level 2- 3, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment.

Conditions on
Mt. Shasta

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Questions?

If you have any questions about climbing Mt. Shasta, we suggest several things.

Order the guide book
Climbing Mt. Shasta.

Call the Wilderness Ranger's Recorded Climbing Advisory (530) 926-9613. Also call the Fifth Season Store's Recorded Climbing Report at 530-926-5555.

Call the Mt. Shasta Ranger District at (530) 926-4511 for a live person.

Website questions or suggestions, please email Steve Lewis.

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NORTHWEST SIDE ROUTES
(from Bolam & Northgate Trailhead)

Route 7: Whitney Glacier - Suggested Level 2- 3, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment.

Whitney Icefall - Suggested Level 3, Advanced, requires experience with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment. Offers Serac and Ice climbing. Use extreme Caution during summer.
Whitney\Bolam Ridge - Suggested 1- 2, Moderate- Advanced, requires ice axe and crampons, experience with steep ice, snow, and rock, and equipment. (Good ski descent)

Route 8: West Bolam Glacier - Suggested Level 2 - 3, require ice axe, crampons, rope for safety, crevasses (Good for first glacial climb)

Route 9: East Bolam Glacier - Suggested Level 3, require ice axe, crampons, crevasses, rope for safety.

Bolam Gully - Suggested Level 3, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, rock, and equipment.

Route 10: Hotlum\Bolam Ridge - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snow, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope above base camp.

Side trip to Chicago Glacier ( from the north) - Suggested Level 1- 3, Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope, experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment, crevasse crossing

NORTHEAST SIDE ROUTES
(from the Northgate & Brewer Creek Trailhead)

Route 11: Hotlum Glacier - Suggested Level 3, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, crevasses, rock, and equipment. (Serac climbing available at Icefalls)

Hotlum Glacier Headwall - Suggested Level 4 with Advanced rock and ice climbing (pitches up to 5.8) equipment required.
Hotlum Headwall Ice Gully - Suggested Level 4 with possible dangerous conditions, requires Advanced rock and ice climbing skills, equipment required.
Hotlum Icefalls - Suggested Level 3 - 4, Advanced with ice climbing, equipment required.
Chicago Glacier Side trip (from the south) - Suggested Level 1- 2, Moderate- Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope, experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment.

Route 12: Hotlum\Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.

Then on to the summit via:

Traverse to the Left - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.
Rock Ridge Direct - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.
Traverse Right (north) - Suggested Level 3, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.

Route 13: Wintun Glacier - Suggested Level 2-3, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope, steep snowfields, ice, or loose talus terrain.

Traverse to Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.
Brewer Creek approach to the Wintun Glacier - Level 2, requires ice axe, crampons, moderate to steep snowfield, ice, or loose talus terrain, conditions may require rope.

SOUTHEAST SIDE ROUTES
(from the Brewer Creek & Clear Creek Trailhead)

Route 14: Wintun Ridge - Suggested Level 1 - 2, Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and conditions may require rope, experience with steep ice, snow, and equipment.

Watkins Glacier Side Trip - Suggested Level 1 - 2, Moderate - Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and conditions may require rope

Route 15: Clear Creek - Suggested Level 1, Moderate, requires ice axe and crampons (Loose talus in summer months)

Route 16: Konwakiton Glacier (from the east) - Suggested Level 3 - 4, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, rock, and equipment. Steep and rugged terrain with dangerous rockfall.

Route 17: Konwakiton Glacier (from the south) - Suggested Level 3 - 4, Advanced, requires ice axe, crampons, and rope for safety, experience with steep ice, snow, rock, and equipment. Steep and rugged terrain with dangerous rockfall.

An excellent route map covering the climbing routes is the "Climbing Routes" by Michael Zanger, owner of Shasta Mountain Guides, and published by Wilderness Press. The map is compiled from Mt. Shasta and McCloud quadrangles and was remapped in 1988 by Andy Selters. The map shows the Mountain's routes and their variations. Available in Mountaineering Stores.

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